At the end of a long day of walking I have arrived at a hostel in La Estella. All of the pilgrims come limping in and pay for their lodgings - about 6 dollars for a bunk bed and another dollar for breakfast. Many people have walking sticks and a shell hanging from their neck or on their backpack - the symbol of the Camino. You can see people tending to blisters on their feet and washing their clothes by hand and hanging them out to dry. You can only imagine for how many centuries people have been doing this - the church in this town is about a thousand years old.